Textile waste is increasing, but one of the best solutions is quite simple: reuse first. In our conversation with Jessica Franken, Director of Government Affairs at SMART (Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association), we discussed how a reuse-first approach helps keep clothing and household textiles in use, creates jobs, and lowers environmental harm.

SMART’s member companies act as the reverse logistics backbone for textiles across the United States. They collect materials from charities, institutions, and post-consumer sources, then sort them for their best possible uses—whether that’s resale, repurposing into wiping cloths, or recycling into insulation and carpet padding. This model of circularity is practical and scalable; it impacts everyday life while supporting accessible clothing economies around the world.

Translating Policy Into Real-World Impact

Jessica’s work sits at a key intersection: translating complex policy into clear guidance for industry and helping lawmakers understand the realities on the ground. Her early visit to a textile sorting facility in Baltimore highlighted the stakes involved. Workers evaluated mountains of garments one by one to determine their next use, showcasing both the skill and the scale of reuse.

This experience also highlighted a significant risk: poorly designed policy can damage effective reuse systems. Misclassifying usable items as waste or limiting export channels can disrupt livelihoods worldwide. Seen this way, textile policy is not just a niche regulatory issue—it influences climate goals, commerce, and social equality.

The Rise of Textile EPR in the United States

Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles marks a significant change in U.S. circular efforts. California has passed the first textile EPR law in the country, while Washington and New York are developing similar frameworks. Throughout these processes, SMART has pushed for clear “reuse first.”